Dog Training Classes - Love them or hate them

Here’s where I fall out with all the dog training class people.
I have no doubt that there are a lot of dedicated dog trainers who attend seminars and courses to expand their knowledge and spend lots of time and effort running training classes with the best intentions at heart.
I constantly get asked to look at dogs displaying acts of aggression, protectiveness or possessiveness. A good percentage of these dogs have been to dog training and puppy socialisation classes. I constantly get the line “we took him to dog training classes but he still doesn’t do what he’s told”. Another classic line I get is “He’s done his good citizens award but he’s not really that obedient”

So lets be honest about all this training class lark. How come a good number of people come through dog training classes and still have a disobedient dog? How come the good citizens award scheme gives the impression that the dogs have been trained and can operate to a level of obedience when in reality these certificates have been known to be awarded at some champ shows “willy nilly”.

Dogs need routines that are fun but incorporate obedience and pack rules.

I attended a dog training class with my 2 dogs. My initial reason for attending the class was to socialise them with other dogs. Oscar was just not suited to the training class environment plus there were aggressive dogs that were being not being addressed and and were being permitted to give out some truly aggressive signals. The class ended up having a negative effect on Oscar making him more stressed in the company of other dogs than he had been previously. I ended up pulling him out and training him to focus on me in the company of other male dogs using a clicker.
Lu was a model student but to be honest by that time I just could not hack the monotonous methods that were being preached so I pulled her out also. For some reason it appears to take ages to teach a dog to do simple tasks like heal, sit, down and stay in the training class environment. I wonder if this is financially motivated?

Here’s my beef about training classes.

• Training classes place dogs in an artificial environment. This environment prevents dogs from sorting out their own hierarchy. I find collies and other sight based beeds particularly guilty of inciting aggression by constantly eying up other dogs in the class. This is the situation that can cause stress and end up in a violent outburst. These types of issues would be sorted quickly with a sniff or at worst a short squabble in a natural environment


• I can normally clicker train most dogs to heel, sit and wait easily within 15 – 30 minutes. Yes I admit that the owner needs to perfect and maintain the behaviour but the initial instruction to the dog takes virtually no time. Why do owners have to attend 8 hours or more of training classes to get their dog to perform these basic tasks? Incidentally these basic tasks are more often than not performed inconsistently because the onus is placed on the dog NOT the owner.


• Training classes have this thing about banishing noisy or aggressive dogs out of the room or into a corner. This is a behavioural trick that doesnt work very well in a class situation. My opinion is that a dog who is displaying a protection, fear or dominant instinct needs to be addressed in a one to one situation to ensure that the dog understands why he is not being included in the pack activity. I'm not in favour of just ignoring or banishing the dog hoping that the problem will go away.


• My old rant – Dog trainers train using language based commands that require the dog to interpret and work out what is required. I prefer to communicate with dogs using body language. I train a behaviour without the use of verbal communication then associate a command to the behaviour when it has been firmly established.


• Training classes attempt to teach dogs to respond to commands. I tend to teach owners how to communicate with their dogs rather than expect the dogs to interpret human commands. I spend time one to one with owners to ensure they understand what I’m teaching. I’m normally available for backup consultations or advice via phone or email and I attempt to teach owners how to motivate their dogs by building drive and focus. I try to make training sessions fun. I also encourage and advise on routines that test and reinforce all the basic commands on a daily basis.


• Some trainers use the classes as a platform to promote themselves. I call it canine cabaret. Others use it as a platform to promote their canine related businesses like dog food distribution or dog walking services.


• I must say I see a lot of training classes being run with a view of generating income. Like it or not these classes can be big business with some taking place 2 or 3 times a week with classes of 25 or more. I’m in the fortunate position where I can treat the finance side of my work as secondary. I’m genuinely in this for the dogs and all my clients will back me up on this one – my main concern is keeping dogs out of the never ending rescue centre cycle.
  

Summary

Training classes will not suit every dog or every owner. I find a lot of high drive dogs paricularly the herding and guarding breeds get uptight and frustrated in these classes.

The object of a training class is to provide mass production obedience. A Training classes is a good vehicle to communicate techniques to a large audience but these techniques are sometimes received out of context. This is not always the fault of the trainer , more a consequence of mass information transfer. I find that dogs pick things up much faster than humans and time needs to be taken to ensure that owners understand what is required.

Training classes do little to address behavioural problems. I’ve rarely heard anything mentioned about pack status, group dynamics or solid leadership techniques in a training class. My advice is to get the pack order and behavioural issues in place and the training will look after itself.

New dog owners seldom learn how to make a dog tick by attending training classes. Dogs need to be motivated and owners have to learn how to be interesting.

Dogs need routines that incorporate high activity, obedience, fun, grooming, bonding and everything that is fulfilling.

I'm not knocking dog training classes but I genuinely think they are for a limited audience and have a restricted content.

The Unwritten Contract

I often see dogs that have apparently “gone off the rails”.

A typical scenario is “He’s just started ripping things up in the house when he’s left. He doesn’t need to be left for long - he’s just so destructive now”

Another example is “He will not stop barking - As soon as he’s left in the garden he just stands at the back door or the fence and barks his head off”

This usually results in the owner chastising the dog for his “unruly” behaviour. This can range from harsh words to unnecessary punishment

Here’s my viewpoint on this. In my crazy assed mind I see the relationship between dog and owner as an unwritten contract. This is a contract where the owner/leader agrees to be consistent and fair. The leader displays protection and guidance and always rewards loyalty and obedience. The dog and owner create a routine that is adhered to and in return, the dog looks forward to the good times and accepts the bad times with patience and diligence.

Most dogs will happily tolerate the dull times if the good times are enjoyable.

I honestly believe that things go wrong when a dog feels this contract has been broken. The owner displays a lack of consistency and the dog recognises the negative pattern with no “good bits”. This is where all negative, unwanted behaviour is rooted.

People call me thinking I can waive a magic wand and cure these issues with no input or work on their part. I’m truthful with them. I can’t change a dog’s opinion of their owner without the owner reviewing and adhering to their side of the contract. The dog’s opinion has been based on broken promises and inconsistent routines where the dog has continuously lost out.

The only way I see these situations being resolved is when the owner changes his ways and lives up to their part of the contract. Trust and respect is earned and cannot be blagged or bluffed. Most dogs will happily tolerate the dull times if the good times are enjoyable, especially if they occur at regular intervals.

If your dog is displaying inconsistent, destructive or noisy behaviour you should review the contract from the dog’s view point. Consistent daily routines that incorporate obedience training and fun with help in solving most of these issues

I must admit I have a low tolerance of owners that will not keep their side of the bargain. These people just don’t deserve to own dogs.

Owners who cant live up to their side of the contract should consider rehoming the poor dog rather than submitting it to a life of uncertainty and inconsistence.

At the Beach

The family had a day out at the beach near Dunbar.

This was the first time Lu had been to the seaside so she was slightly wary at first but in typical Lu fashion adapted with ease after a few minutes.

Oscar is an old pro and absolutely loves to romp around in the sand and swim in the sea.

Here's a video of them charging out to see Nancy and generally having a great time.

Zack

Lynne called with concerns over Zack's behaviour at feeding times. Lynne and family are preparing to immigrate to New Zealand and understandably Lynne had concerns about Zack suddenly turning on her.

The interesting thing about this case is that Zack shows no aggressive tendencies other than food aggression. There has been a lot of upset and turmoil recently as the family have downsized home in preparation of their move. The family previously had a large walled garden where Zack could play in and generally he had more room to relax in and around the home. To add to the situation, the family have another dominant older dog and a few cats.

I arrived at the house and asked Lynne to make Zack’s dinner. As soon as Jack’s dinner was made up one of the cats moved in for a “free meal”.

It’s obvious that Zack had lost his food to the other animals in the house on more than one occasion.

I took Zack outside and worked with him in the garden. He showed no signs of aggression. In fact he was a very amicable soul and was willing to work with me.

I asked for the food to be placed in the yard. Zack got very stressed as soon as he saw the food. I worked away with him asking him to walk past the food for a reward and some praise. I had to be firm and stand my ground with him because he was very intent on getting his food before someone else devoured it.

I then got Lynne to walk him past the food and reward him each time he gave the behaviour and past the food.

This dog is not aggressive. It’s obvious to me that this fella has lost his food to the other animals in the house on more than one occasion and he’s learned to defend his food. The other factor in this is that previously Zack would have had room in the house to relax and enjoy a chew in peace with being challenged by the other dog and cats.

Initially from the information Lynne gave me it appeared to be a classic pack leadership issue. This is not the case with Zack. Zack is not trying to promote himself within the household. Zack just wants peace to eat his food without it getting snaffled by the other animals.

Lynne is rehoming the cats and the older dog before the family leave for New Zealand. I’ve recommended that Zack is fed in isolation and is reassured that his food will not be stolen from him. I’ve also recommended that the desensitizing of food is continued daily by walking him passed the dish and rewarding him for not lunging at his bowl.

Lynne called me because she had concerns about Zack’s food aggression. My call is that Zack is not aggressive – he’s only protecting his food which is purely a survival instinct. I think when the other occupants are rehomed Zack’s food aggression will disappear. Working on the desensitizing will stop any pack promotion instinct to come to the fore.

I give my dogs the respect of allowing them to eat their meals in peace.

Looking forward to seeing photos of Zack in his new home

I’d like to express my thoughts on food and feeding time. A lot of owners think it’s necessary to muck around with a dog’s food bowl – i.e. making the dog leave the food, removing the dish while the dog is eating and putting your hands in the bowl.
I don’t do any of these things. In the wild, the lead wolf takes his share and walks away. I think that a dog should be left in peace to eat his meal without having to worry about someone taking it from him. I do train the leave command using treats and I can happily take a bone away from my dogs but I give them the respect of eating their meals in peace.

Willow

Sheila called me to discuss her lovely sheltie called Willow.

Willow had been adopted from 2nd Chance Kennels and had settled in with Sheila and her other 2 dogs.

Sheila has a lovely home and it‘s obvious that she loves her dogs.
Willow had progressively promoted herself to pack leader and was assuming the responsibility of protecting the property and all its inhabitants.This manifested itself in bouts of aggression especially with visitors and other dogs.I was “welcomed” by a snarling little collie making me aware that she was in charge

I arrived at Sheila’s house on a horrible rainy Saturday night after getting lost several times on the way (I must get that SAT NAV I’ve been promising myself).

I was “welcomed” by a snarling collie making me aware that she was in charge.

I was “welcomed” by a snarling little collie making me aware that she was in charge. I totally ignored her and did not make eye contact. I walked around the room then into the lobby then through to the kitchen. Willow followed me making it perfectly clear that she was leader of the house and was not happy with me intruding.

I walked back into the lounge and sat on the sofa. Sheila sat adjacent to me with Willow sitting directly in front of her. When you understand the canine language it’s so easy to understand why dogs get “aggressive” and stressed. This wee dog was pack leader but she was not equipped to deal with the responsibilities that go with the position.

I spoke to Sheila explaining what I do and how dogs get human signals mixed up and some general information about pack behaviour etc. All this time Willow was staring at me desperate to make eye contact with me. I never even looked at her.

A few times during the conversation I stood up and Willow got very aggressive and barky. I continued to turn my back on her and refused to make eye contact.

I asked Sheila to put a long lead on her and we went outside. I walked with her and done my usual turning, clicking and treating techniques and she came round very quickly.

I noticed a girl walking up the road with a black lab and seized the opportunity to tackle Willow's dog to dog aggression. Willow raised her head and barked at the dog. I instantly turned her away from the dog, clicked and treated her. I then walked nearer the dog and give her the body language to turn towards me. She turned instantly and was dually clicked and rewarded with treats and gently hands.

We went back indoors and Willow was a different animal. She sat next to me with a soft amicable expression. I tested her by rising out of my chair. The first time I got out the chair she barked. I instantly turned my back on her. I repeated my action and this time she was quiet. I clicked and rewarded her. Job done.

I spent the next while chatting to Sheila about all the background body language and group dynamics that were going on.

Sheila needs to control food. She also needs to ignore Willow’s attention when she returns home after being out. I also recommend continuing the clicker training and walking Willow on her own until control can be maintained at all times.

Sheila needs to embrace her role as pack leader. Willow needs to be rewarded for good things and desensitized to all her hang ups. This will take a bit of work on Sheila’s part but I’m sure Willow will come good if she’s handled correctly.

Willow is a smashing wee dog, bright as a button and really keen to please when handled in a positive environment.

I think Willow would respond to some high activity bonding training. I find dogs with Willows temperament love to work and do things. You can really turn a dog like this around very quickly with consistent handling and solid leadership.

Apologies for the poor picture – it does not do her justice.

Corn beef Jack

Caroline called me some time ago to discuss her little jack russell cross named Jack.

Jack is completely deaf so conventional training techniques have little or no effect. Jack was showing aggression towards young children and appeared to be capable of inflicting serious damage.

The big issue with this little terror was that his behaviour was intermittent and unpredictable. Jack would get himself upset at the sight of strangers or young kids and go out his way to target them.

I had initially advised hand signals and target stick training for Jack but I had not seen him personally at this point and to be fair Caroline had already trained him to hand signals and had completed the good citizen bronze award scheme.

A few weeks later I got another call to say Jack had attempted to have a go at a young child. I agreed to see Jack at the "Bark in the Park" day in Lochgelly. I met Caroline in the park and Jack appeared to be fine. I walked him across the field and waited for him to pull or go in front of me. As soon as he stepped in front of me I turned and watched him. As soon as he offered me the behaviour I was after I rewarded him and tapped my foot to give him a marker (a marker is a positive acknowledgement).

As he trusted me more and I moved closer until I had totally desensitized him to the ball.

I repeated this a few times to let him understand what I was looking for. I then asked Caroline to bounce a ball.(In the past Jack had turned aggressive when he saw a large football) I leaned to him and comforted him. This sounds a bit freaky but I sent him pictures of me protecting him against the ball by thinking what the picture would look like of me standing between him and the ball. This is the part that I do that most other trainers do not do. I do this a lot and it's my way of assuring him at HIS level that I'm his protector and pack leader. As soon as I seen the signs of him offering trust I moved closer to Caroline. I repeated the reward and the soft hands to comfort him. As he trusted me more and I moved closer again until I had totally desensitized him to the ball. I had offered him leadership and protection and I had lived up to my contract and protected him for this big ball getting bounced about.

Jack is a tiny dog in a huge world full of frightening things and he just has no confidence in the handling or signals he has received so he feels he has to stick up for himself.

My advice at that time was :

• Walk him for 5 - 10 minutes 2 or 3 times a day alone on a lead.
  
• Do not allow him to walk in front of you. (make sure you reward him when he offers you behaviour.)
  
• Reward him for turning with you and keeping pace with you.
  
• Make him wait for you to go through gates and doors before him and reward him.
  
• Don’t allow him to interrogate visitors.
  
• Make him wait in his bed or place until the visitor is seated before he is allowed in the room.
  
• Reward him for waiting in his bed.
  
• Do not allow him to charge around the garden and bark.

I agreed to visit Caroline and see what was going on around the house. Jack gets possessive about things in the house and takes great pleasure in stealing an article, e.g. a clothes peg, hiding under the table and not giving it back. My solution was simple. Every time he steals something walk away from him. reward him when he comes to see you, pick him up and pick up the object he's stolen. Job done - no hassle, frustration or bad tempers.

Jack likes to get out to the garden and tear round about it barking furiously. My advice is to make him wait by blocking his entry to the garden and give him a hand signal to release him. Allow him to run in the garden but keep a long line on him so control is maintained at all times and reward him for coming when instructed.

I walked out with Caroline and Jack. Jack passes a fence where another dog lives and he usually gets all uptight and aggressive. I walked to the fence and started treating him each time he turned away from the fence and looked at me. He was totally desensitized to the "danger" behind the fence within a few minutes.

We returned home and Caroline brought a large toy that Jack had gone berserk at previously into the living room.

Jack's thieving and possessive behaviour is occurring simply because it is being permitted to happen.

I placed the toy on the floor and stood between Jack and the toy. I looked for the "see me" behaviour and treated. Jack is food orientated so I was able to desensitize him to the toy very quickly.

My observations indicate that Jack's thieving and possessive behaviour is occurring simply because it is being permitted to happen. Jack’s aggression is a by product of him being allowed to dominate in the house. Jacks aggression outdoors is a result of him being allowed to dominate indoors. This is a classic example of the dog assuming a high position on the pack and feeling he has no option but to defend his territory.

The difference with this case is that Jack’s dominance is not clearly visible at first glance because he is not displaying the usual dominant signs like jumping on coaches, protecting food etc. However he is constantly creating and winning battles and taking part in acts of defiance.

Jack's aggression needs to be addressed by controlling undesirable behaviours while building confidence and protection. Simple aversion techniques coupled with consistent handling will provide good results.

I'm always biased towards dogs but I don’t think this wee guy is bad. If anything he is clever and cunning and needs good, strong, solid leadership.

I’ve a feeling I’m not finished with this little fella yet.

Working 2 dogs independently

I have both my dogs trained to the whistle. Each dog has its own whistle. This allows me to control them independently.

This may not look that impressive but believe me it takes a bit of work to get each dog to work positively to its own whistle and have the confidence to ignore any commands issued via the other whistle.

Basically you need to train the dog to know the pitch of its own whistle and disregard any commands for any other whistle. It is the disregarding part that is the difficult bit.

I start by training each dog to stop and recall to it's own whistle. This is one to one training.

I then work each dog to its own whistle while the other dog is walking at heel.

I then work the two dogs 180 degrees apart from each other. This allows me to control each dog without confusing or unsettling the other.

When both dogs have mastered this, I start recalling them individually while they are sitting together. I start from around 20 feet and gradually increase my distance. The videos show me recalling the dogs from around 60 yards. I could easily double this distance but I would not be able to capture it on film easily.

This is great work for the dogs and really gets them stimulated mentally.

I also work each dog individually using voice commands and I've recently started using foot signals and remote bleepers to issue commands.I'll create another post to address these command types in due course. I'm constantly building new exercises into our daily routine.

I believe any dog could be trained to perform at this level. It simply take patience and consistency.

enjoy!!

Every cloud !!!!!

Tonight was just one of they nights. The nights that a doggy people regularly describe to me when nothings going their way.A night where the dogs are much more interested in mischief and saying hello to all their friends than listening to me and doing what they are told.

I spend loads of time curing everyone else's dogs and don't spend enough quality time motivating my own dogs.

I had a hard day at work,picked my son up from the golf club, threw some dinner down my throat, fed the dogs and off we went. My plan was to go for a nice long walk and just have some "me time" with the dogs. I often walk to a high peak or a quiet place and just sit and chill with the dogs. I carry a moulting rake in my pocket and I sit and brush them. I find it very therapeutic and they dogs appear to like it also.

Anyway, best laid plans, I ended up coming home early because Oscar had decided to run up to see his friends and didn't stop when whistled. Then Lu decided she would attempt to take Gypsy's ball off her. Gypsys is a gorgious GSD that we ofen meet in the park. I decided I just had to get home and limit the damage.

I got home and started thinking about the events that had occurred and a few things came to mind.

the ability to "make your dog tick" is a great asset.

Firstly, Lu has not come on the way I expected her to. She's very clever and picks things up with astonishing speed. I then asked myself "When was the last time you spent some real quality time with Lu on her own?" The answer was obvious - I spend loads of time curing everyone else's dogs and don't spend enough quality time motivating my own dogs.

Secondly I analysed the steps that occur when Oscar decides to run and say hello to his friends when he's not been officially released. The owner of the dog that Oscar runs up to always offers him kind words and strokes him. Oscar is merely being sociable and friendly and of course he's going to run in because that is much more fun than walking quietly at my heel.

So I grumped and snarled at everyone in the house then I thought "OK let's make things better". I put my jacket on and set out with Lu. I took a small squeaky ball with me and the first thing I noticed was that she was much more alert than usual. I walked her at heel off leash and she was great. I then asked her to sit and I walked about 30 yards, threw a ball into the grass at one side of me and walked another 30 yards.

Lu was absolutely loving this and I was getting much more drive and focus than normal.

I then called her in. She moved towards the ball on the way in but I corrected her and she came into my heel. I then sent her back for the ball. In typical Lu fashion, the next time I tried it she had sussed out what was required and recalled perfectly without even a glance at the ball. I then sent her back for the retrieve and again she behaved perfectly. Lu was absolutely loving this and I was getting much more drive and focus than normal.
Drive and focus is not normally associated with pet obedience however the ability to "make your dog tick" is a great asset.
Some dogs are naturally full of drive. Oscar falls into this category. In fact he is somtimes over the top and needs settling down more than anything.

Lu is a more laid back soul. The problem I've been experiencing with her is that she sometimes completely looses focus and just plods on her own merry way. At other times she's an absolute flying machine with a diminished hearing capacity.

I decided to try her for fast sits and tight heel turns and she was great. I made a big fuss of her and got her home ASAP.

Now I was on a role and I decided to tackle the big fella. I noticed a neighbour of mine leaving to walk his dogs and I thought I'd intercept them and test my theory. Sure enough I met Carol, Davy and their 3 dogs. Oscar was his usual boisterous self so I asked Davy and Carol not to make eye contact or offer him any affection whatsoever. After a few attempts Oscar settled down. I sat him down and asked him to stay. He was playing up in company so I asked Carol and Davy to walk on about 50 yards and wait for me. Every time Oscar attempted to stand up, I asked him to sit. After 3 petulant attempts he sat. I walked 50 yards, waited and called him in. He came back perfectly. I then allowed him to carry his ball home as a reward. I issued a few commands like wait, back, sit, down , turn while we were walking home and he was in top form.

Tonight I've learned that I need to spend some quality time with each dog without the distraction of the other dog doing it's thing. It's great to go for long walks and let them run wild across the moors and hills.It's also a great opportunity for me to clear my head but 5 or 10 minutes with each dog strengthens the bond and will allow me to deal solely with the issue in hand without having to worry about the others.

The Ultimate Second Chancer

I visited Second Chance Kennels yesterday. Ena invited me to look at a few dogs, in particular 2 collies that were getting a bit possessive about their food etc.

I was introduced to Sam, an 8 month old border collie. I performed my usual routine with him and introduced him to the wait command. I then asked Ena to place some food down in the yard and asked Sam to wait (i.e. don't walk over and start eating the food). Everything went OK.

I was then introduced to Oscar. Oscar is a stunning 10 month old border collie who was abandoned outside the kennels. Ena found him tied to a post with a note and some food. His owner probably done him the biggest favour in the world because you'd have to be really stupid to give up an animal of this caliber and Oscar needs an owner with some brains about them.

I introduced Oscar to the clicker and within 2 clicks he was turning and waiting. This dog is amongst the most intelligent I have ever seen. He is an absolute star and I'd love to do more work with him.It's easy to see why collies are the breed of choice for the obedience people .When you meet something like this, it makes you wonder just how far he could go with good handling and the proper motovation.

Anyway I then introduced Sam to Oscar and a few squabbles and tiffs later, the two were just about tolerating one another. I must admit Sam is the dominant dog and is used to being in charge of everyone.

It's easy to see why collies are the breed of choice for the obedience people.

The situation is not resolved but hopefully with a bit of work we can cure Sam of his dominant tendencies.
At one time I sat on a bench with the 2 dogs by my side. This was just after I had pulled Sam off Oscar. Sam snuggled into me and offered me a paw in submission. This is a sure sign that this wee fella can be sorted. This was a communication of "I'm sorry I didn't mean to upset you , I just don't understand how to communicate with other dogs yet".

Some people would view Sam's dominance as aggression but I compare it to putting some teenagers together who have not developed their communication skills. Initially there will be very little communication and a lot of uncertainty and even acts of bravado and dominance but within a short period of time they'll all start communicating and getting along famously. This is purely a lack of communication skills that need to be taught and enhanced. Some dogs are born with great communication skills whereas others need time and patience to develop them. Sam belongs to the later category.

As far as Oscar goes, I'd love to train him and really hope this guy goes to a home that will stimulate him both physically and mentally. It would be a grave disservice to give this dog to a home where he would have a mundane existence. Some dogs have a lasting impression on me and I'm struggling to get this fella out of my head at the moment. I'd probably need to get a new sleeping partner if I brought another Oscar into this house.

I'd like to mention a few things about Second Chance kennels. This is a small charity kennel with limited facilities and is run by Ena, Frank, Mhairi plus a few dedicated volunteers. The kennels have a good sized exercise area where the dogs can run and socialise with each other. The great thing about this is that the dogs get a chance to sort out their own hierarchy.

Dogs usually sort things out themselves and its not until humans get involved that jealousy and aggression set in.The obvious thing is that they all have great fun romping around playing with balls and toys. They also get a chance to "be dogs".

I also noticed how every potential owner was scrutinised by Ena and it was obvious to me that some candidates were going to be disappointed.

I agree with Ena on this one. There are some people who are just not worthy of owning dogs. The dogs are too good for them.

I really enjoyed my day at second chance. I loved all the dogs there. All the dogs have their own characters and it's great to see them all having fun and being happy. It's not easy to run this type of kennel and it's good to see the dogs being made as comfortable and as happy as possible. The more I do this job, the more I see the character behind the fur.The physical shape and size of the dog begins to fade into insignificance. I'll always have my preferred breeds and I openly admit that I like dogs that "do things" but when I see some of the characters at second chance I realise I just love them all irrespective of breed. Every day's a school day. I just keep on learning.

I must admit that I would like to talk to new owners and introduce them to my way of communicating with dogs - maybe we can take this further - who knows.....

Here are some of the other second chancers - apologies to Max and Sam who never got their photos taken.